Wednesday, June 28, 2006
Dinner last night was SPECTACULAR! Paul, the guy with the travel agency, booked reservations across town at a local place that has a good reputation. The restaurants in the entire block were packed, at 10:00 on a Tuesday night, and we wouldn't have gotten in without a reservation.
Eddie had a cold melon soup, which was amazing, and I opted for traditional Hungarian Goulash. I have to say, for all the hype it was a lot like Dinty Moore beef stew. It was good, but not all that unique or unusual. We both had Hungarian Goulash, which was steak tips in a mushroom gravy with more of those little potato hush-puppies on top. It would have been impolite to lick the bowl, but I would have -- it was so good.
Of course, the fact that we had a piece of chocolate cake and a cup of coffee for lunch may have had something to do with that, too.
The trip back to the hotel was much easier, too -- we rode the subway both to and from dinner, so no getting lost on the wrong side of the tracks.
Oh, the other thing that they had was some pretty amazing lemonade. They start with a tall glass, put in a simple syrup (i.e. sugar water) and then add lemon juice and water. Then they cut up lemons, limes and oranges and put pieces of each in the glass. You don't even notice that there ought to be a little more ice -- it's very tart and quenches your thirst well, though, which is good because we were seated inside with no AC and it was about 112 degrees by the time dinner was over. We now know why Hungarian men unbutton their shirts so freely. Oh, and that myth about rewearing clothes a second day -- ain't happening. Them 5-day deodorant pads are curlin' up and dyin' about 2 days in.
This morning we slept in -- truly slept in, to about 8:00 local time, which anyone who knows us will realize is extremely rare. Met up with a couple of the guys at breakfast and then everyone went their separate ways.
Yesterday was our day of churches, and today was a day of government.
Our first stop was at one of the most feared addresses in all of Hungary - 60 Andressy Utca - which was first the headquarters of the Nazi SS, and which later served a similar purpose for the Russian Communists. This was where political prisoners were taken, tortured and killed. We had english language tapes, so there was a pretty good explanation.
As you go in and up, there is a large soviet tank sitting in the lobby / courtyard (it's covered, so I'm not sure which it is), in a pool of used motor oil. Around it are metal engravings in black and silver, which are the mug shots of those individuals who have gone into the building and then disappeared. I couldn't help but once again being amazed at the inhumanity that one people can show another, and that no one took any action to stop it.
Coming out, I couldn't help but draw parallels to the current situation in the United States (I know I promised no more politicizing, but I can't help it). They started by passing laws -- for the good of the people -- that "protected" them by just giving up a little freedom. The majority in power ignored the views of the minorities, and pretty soon people were being turned in by their neighbors and children for having "unpatriotic views". Phones were tapped without due process, library records seized -- sound familiar to anyone?
Eddie is of the opinion that this couldn't happen in the United States today, that I'm being somewhat alarmist, and he may have a point. The general population is better educated now, there's more media visiblity, and independent communication, such as the internet, allows more individual knowledge of what's going on.
It still confirms in my mind, though, that there is nothing more sinister than good people standing by and failing to take action when other groups, even those with whom they may not agree, are being oppressed.
Now I'm done preachin'.
After the museum (which was called, incidentally, the Museum of Terror) we continued down Andressy Utca past the remarkable mansions that were built between 1850 and 1910. Most, if not all, are now apartments, but they're still beautiful.
We opted for the subway back (185 HUF ea.) rather than hoofing it over a mile back up to the hotel. We then continued "Government Day" with a walk from our hotel to Parliment House, which is Hungary's equivalent of the House and Senate Buildings.
It is an absolutely beautiful building. Given that it is the most important government building for their government, security was amazingly simple. We went up close and in a side door, bought tickets for an English Language tour, and then came back out -- no inspection of bags, etc.
When it was time for the tour, we went in and through airport style detectors / x-ray machines, but then were given our backpacks back. Only one place where flash photography wasn't allowed, but otherwise we were able to take all the pics we wanted. Of course, the tour was somewhat limited to those areas you'd expect to be public -- lobby, stairwells, parliment chamber.
The building used 60 Kilos of gold in construction -- I don' t know how to convert that right now, but can tell you that it is a BUTTLOAD!!! There was gold leaf everywhere. They said that the building, constructed between 1881 and 1901 (I think), cost as much as construction of a city for 40,000 people.
Their parliment building is the 3rd largest in Europe, and they have their first female prime minister. Their parliment is also very large for a country this size - 320 members. They were out for the day, so we got to go into the parliment chambers and view them.
One of the neatest things that happened while we were there was that the ceremonial guards marched in to guard the crown jewels, which were on display -- crown, orb, scepter and sword -- again, in a glass case, we were allowed next to them just like the watches at Target. The only thing they asked was no flash photography and don't bother the guards. Pretty laid back rules when you think about it.
By then our breakfast was wearing out, so on the way back we stopped at a random place that had tables on the sidewalk. After glancing at the menu and swallowing hard at the prices, we realized WHY there was nobody setting there. Fortunately we weren't very hungry. We eached had a "baked paprika salad" and a bottle of mineral water.
Turns out a baked paprika salad is 1/2 a red bell pepper and 1/2 a white or yellow one that have been baked and have some garlic on top of them, in kind of a sweet oil base. It was very good, and was just the right lunch for a hot day. Total price was less than 2000 HUF, so it was very reasonable although the waiter was a bit snippy that we didn't order something more expensive.
Now we've had a nap and ventured out for our pre-supper constitutional. Since we're probably eating a bit late, we held off starvation with ice cream sundaes at the hotel cafe and coffee. A little cool front came through last night, there's just a hint of partly cloudy, but it's wonderfully a little bit cooler (but not much).
Tomorrow we leave for Vienna by train. Don't know when the next post will be, but if Austria is like Hungary, there are internet cafes all over.
Those posting comments, please remember that what you right is public record -- read by everyone, including your co-workers! Don't say it if you don't really mean it!
Larry & Eddie
Eddie had a cold melon soup, which was amazing, and I opted for traditional Hungarian Goulash. I have to say, for all the hype it was a lot like Dinty Moore beef stew. It was good, but not all that unique or unusual. We both had Hungarian Goulash, which was steak tips in a mushroom gravy with more of those little potato hush-puppies on top. It would have been impolite to lick the bowl, but I would have -- it was so good.
Of course, the fact that we had a piece of chocolate cake and a cup of coffee for lunch may have had something to do with that, too.
The trip back to the hotel was much easier, too -- we rode the subway both to and from dinner, so no getting lost on the wrong side of the tracks.
Oh, the other thing that they had was some pretty amazing lemonade. They start with a tall glass, put in a simple syrup (i.e. sugar water) and then add lemon juice and water. Then they cut up lemons, limes and oranges and put pieces of each in the glass. You don't even notice that there ought to be a little more ice -- it's very tart and quenches your thirst well, though, which is good because we were seated inside with no AC and it was about 112 degrees by the time dinner was over. We now know why Hungarian men unbutton their shirts so freely. Oh, and that myth about rewearing clothes a second day -- ain't happening. Them 5-day deodorant pads are curlin' up and dyin' about 2 days in.
This morning we slept in -- truly slept in, to about 8:00 local time, which anyone who knows us will realize is extremely rare. Met up with a couple of the guys at breakfast and then everyone went their separate ways.
Yesterday was our day of churches, and today was a day of government.
Our first stop was at one of the most feared addresses in all of Hungary - 60 Andressy Utca - which was first the headquarters of the Nazi SS, and which later served a similar purpose for the Russian Communists. This was where political prisoners were taken, tortured and killed. We had english language tapes, so there was a pretty good explanation.
As you go in and up, there is a large soviet tank sitting in the lobby / courtyard (it's covered, so I'm not sure which it is), in a pool of used motor oil. Around it are metal engravings in black and silver, which are the mug shots of those individuals who have gone into the building and then disappeared. I couldn't help but once again being amazed at the inhumanity that one people can show another, and that no one took any action to stop it.
Coming out, I couldn't help but draw parallels to the current situation in the United States (I know I promised no more politicizing, but I can't help it). They started by passing laws -- for the good of the people -- that "protected" them by just giving up a little freedom. The majority in power ignored the views of the minorities, and pretty soon people were being turned in by their neighbors and children for having "unpatriotic views". Phones were tapped without due process, library records seized -- sound familiar to anyone?
Eddie is of the opinion that this couldn't happen in the United States today, that I'm being somewhat alarmist, and he may have a point. The general population is better educated now, there's more media visiblity, and independent communication, such as the internet, allows more individual knowledge of what's going on.
It still confirms in my mind, though, that there is nothing more sinister than good people standing by and failing to take action when other groups, even those with whom they may not agree, are being oppressed.
Now I'm done preachin'.
After the museum (which was called, incidentally, the Museum of Terror) we continued down Andressy Utca past the remarkable mansions that were built between 1850 and 1910. Most, if not all, are now apartments, but they're still beautiful.
We opted for the subway back (185 HUF ea.) rather than hoofing it over a mile back up to the hotel. We then continued "Government Day" with a walk from our hotel to Parliment House, which is Hungary's equivalent of the House and Senate Buildings.
It is an absolutely beautiful building. Given that it is the most important government building for their government, security was amazingly simple. We went up close and in a side door, bought tickets for an English Language tour, and then came back out -- no inspection of bags, etc.
When it was time for the tour, we went in and through airport style detectors / x-ray machines, but then were given our backpacks back. Only one place where flash photography wasn't allowed, but otherwise we were able to take all the pics we wanted. Of course, the tour was somewhat limited to those areas you'd expect to be public -- lobby, stairwells, parliment chamber.
The building used 60 Kilos of gold in construction -- I don' t know how to convert that right now, but can tell you that it is a BUTTLOAD!!! There was gold leaf everywhere. They said that the building, constructed between 1881 and 1901 (I think), cost as much as construction of a city for 40,000 people.
Their parliment building is the 3rd largest in Europe, and they have their first female prime minister. Their parliment is also very large for a country this size - 320 members. They were out for the day, so we got to go into the parliment chambers and view them.
One of the neatest things that happened while we were there was that the ceremonial guards marched in to guard the crown jewels, which were on display -- crown, orb, scepter and sword -- again, in a glass case, we were allowed next to them just like the watches at Target. The only thing they asked was no flash photography and don't bother the guards. Pretty laid back rules when you think about it.
By then our breakfast was wearing out, so on the way back we stopped at a random place that had tables on the sidewalk. After glancing at the menu and swallowing hard at the prices, we realized WHY there was nobody setting there. Fortunately we weren't very hungry. We eached had a "baked paprika salad" and a bottle of mineral water.
Turns out a baked paprika salad is 1/2 a red bell pepper and 1/2 a white or yellow one that have been baked and have some garlic on top of them, in kind of a sweet oil base. It was very good, and was just the right lunch for a hot day. Total price was less than 2000 HUF, so it was very reasonable although the waiter was a bit snippy that we didn't order something more expensive.
Now we've had a nap and ventured out for our pre-supper constitutional. Since we're probably eating a bit late, we held off starvation with ice cream sundaes at the hotel cafe and coffee. A little cool front came through last night, there's just a hint of partly cloudy, but it's wonderfully a little bit cooler (but not much).
Tomorrow we leave for Vienna by train. Don't know when the next post will be, but if Austria is like Hungary, there are internet cafes all over.
Those posting comments, please remember that what you right is public record -- read by everyone, including your co-workers! Don't say it if you don't really mean it!
Larry & Eddie
posted by me | 7:28 AM
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